Several years ago, I was stranded in Istanbul because of the Icelandic eruptions. I wandered through the ancient city and was astounded by the beauty of the place – and just as much by its food. I tasted grilled meats cooked over open fires on the streets, and had a kofta dish served with cacik, a classic cucumber and mint sauce, that was so intensely delicious that the moment has been distilled in my memory. Mince, with good provenance and the right amount of fat to carry flavour and lend moisture, is a kitchen hero. Here, it delivers an astoundingly good dinner inspired by that meal, and which shouldn’t break the bank.
Lamb koftas with buttery tomato sauce
A deliciously savoury feast of grilled lamb, spices and dill with a richly aromatic sauce
Prep 10 min
Cook 1 hr
Serves 4 with leftovers
For the spice mix
2 tsp cumin seeds
1 tbsp coriander seeds
3-4 fat garlic cloves, peeled
1 tsp ground cinnamon
Salt and black pepper
1 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp ground ginger
For the koftas
2 tbsp vegetable or olive oil
2 medium red onions, peeled and diced
900g lamb mince
1 large handful fresh dill, finely chopped
For the tomato sauce
50g butter
1 large onion, peeled and finely diced
2 x 400g tins plum tomatoes
2 bay leaves
Warm a heavy-based casserole on a medium heat, then gently toast the cumin and coriander seeds for a few minutes. Tip them into a mortar or spice grinde, add the garlic, cinnamon and half a teaspoon of salt, and grind to a paste. Set aside half of the paste for the tomato sauce, then mix the turmeric and ginger into the remaining paste in the mortar.
Meanwhile, heat the oil for the koftas in the same pan, add the two diced onions, and sweat with a teaspoon of salt for eight to 10 minutes. Stir in the garlicky paste from the mortar and, once the onions are translucent and smelling tantalisingly good, add the lamb and scrape the mix into a bowl.
To make the sauce, put the same pan back on a medium heat, add the butter and onion, and season generously. After eight to 10 minutes, stir in the reserved spice paste and stir-fry for a few minutes. Cut up the tinned tomatoes with scissors or squash them to a pulp, then stir them into the pan with the bay leaves. Stir, then simmer gently over a medium heat for about 15 minutes, until the sauce is thick and glossy.
Meanwhile, mix the dill in to the bowl of onions and mince, and season with a teaspoon of salt and some black pepper. Mix thoroughly, then, using your hands, shape into equal-sized, flattish torpedo shapes. You should end up with 12-14 in all.
When you are ready to eat, heat a griddle, barbecue or frying pan on a high heat until smoking. Griddle or fry the koftas for two to three minutes on each side, until just cooked in the middle. Serve astride the tomato sauce with short-grain rice or bulgur wheat, some wilted spinach or chard, and the cacik below.
Shredded cucumber cacik
A dip that is delicious for breakfast with bread, olives and feta, and perfect for layering in a sandwich and insanely good with grilled aubergine.
Prep 5 min
Cook 15 min
Serves 4 with leftovers
400g greek yoghurt
2 small cucumbers, or ½ large cucumber
1-2 small garlic cloves, peeled
Salt
1 small handful fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
½ tsp dried mint (optional)
Extra-virgin olive oil
Put the yoghurt in a mixing bowl and beat it with a fork until very smooth.
Top and tail the cucumbers and coarsely grate them into the same bowl. Finely grate the garlic and add it to the yoghurt mixture with half a teaspoon of salt, all but a scattering of the fresh mint and the dried mint, if using.
Pour over some olive oil in a swirl, top with the last of the fresh mint and serve with the koftas above.