When it comes to women’s rights, few regions are more advanced than Scandinavia. As she builds Teurn Studios, Anna Teurnell, whose default is for a kind of solutions-based uniform dressing that borrows heavily from menswear, is discovering that fashion occupies a different realm, one where most collections for women are designed by men, and where buyers are continually asking her for more dresses.
This got the designer wondering, “What is feminism?”—or perhaps more specifically, are feminism and the feminine aesthetically conflated? “I love so much clothes from men’s wardrobes, I like the attitude of wearing almost the same thing every day,” said Teurnell on a call from Stockholm. “Small adjustments, but a feminine touch always—a quite quiet kind of feminist. I still like hard and soft at the same time.” Evidence of this could be found in the second look, an inky satin blouse with a draped collar, whose fall was in perfect harmony with the insouciant droop of a light-washed pair of oversized paper bag jeans with four or five-inch zips at the bottom of the back hems.
For no-fuss Teurnell, that shiny slip on top checked the festive box, as did the “kitty cat” separates in the offering that were made of soft-to-the touch fil coupe. Accessories have always been part of this designer’s total vision, and the lookbook demonstrates how a belt confetti-ed with bold metal studs, or a pair of rhinestone earrings can dress-up even a sweater and jean combo.
On the tailoring front, there was a striped suit with higher-waist pants and a double-breasted blazer, as well as a cropped trench jacket that can be worn as part of a set with matching cavalry twill slacks or in a blouse-like manner. New for the season was a box-pleat midi skirt, but as Teurnell noted, trousers are her “most important product category.” She showed a tailored track style with gathered ankles, and, without giving up voluminous cuts, cosigned the return to a “super slim” fit as a fresh option via her skinny “Joey Ramone” pants cut in denim, and—what else?—black Nappa leather with a matching cropped jacket. Rock on.