“The fact is if we’re not aging, we’re dead,” she says frankly. “The goal is to age the best that you can, not just physically but mentally. And the physical does affect the psyche.” So, what aging looks like on the face: it’s loss of elasticity, lines and wrinkles, and jowling.
As noted by Dr. Idriss, another indisputable part of the aging process starts as early as your twenties; collagen production naturally begins to decrease around the age of 25, typically by about 1% per year, contributing to the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. “We’re much more attuned to our faces and people are noticing them more,” she says—it’s a culture thing, where the Instagram feed, front-facing camera, and the celebrity news cycle have us examining our faces in ways we’ve never done before. But still, Dr. Idriss has noticed a “subtle shift” in faces. Over the course of six months, there’s a “flatness” that happens. Faces get narrower and longer. According to the derm, that’s happening because of slight “volume shrinkage” on the outer aspect of our faces that shifts things in your face. Can it be prevented? Not hugely, but you can address the more overarching aging shift; Dr. Idriss advises that you stick to a healthy diet, and try not to fluctuate in weight. Yo-yoing can accentuate those facial shifts. Collagen powders won’t make an impact either, she belives, because you can’t spot target like that.
Topical vitamin A-based drugs—AKA retinoids—have been proven to reduce fine lines and wrinkles by increasing the production of collagen. “Your later self will thank you,” Dr. Idriss says of retinol usage in your twenties. In the derm office, light microneedling can make a difference too—although not with a lot of radio frequency or heat, as Dr. Idriss advises, which could “melt” the fat or tissue in your face that gives your skin elasticity and that plump appearance.
The second peak in your late thirties, as Dr. Idriss says, can be reflected in jowling (sagging skin) around the face over the course of a month. Smile lines can become more prominent. Having a good derm, here, can be important. No cream is going to restore volume—different treatments like PRF (Platelet-Rich Fibrin, derived from your body’s blood) or PRP therapies to stimulate your own tissue would be advisable. It can strengthen your tissue, and can slow down the deepening of smile lines. Dr. Idriss says she’s noticed it’s helped her own under eyes. Filler, when used strategically and done correctly, could also be considered. While fillers won’t lift your face, it can be used to fill in the details on your face to create balance and make jowls less prominent. Dr. Idriss also advises ultrasound treatments around this time, which would help to tighten skin over time.