The world of dance has leapt long in fashion’s collective imagination. Consider the reign of the ballet flat—still twirling its way down runways from Ferragamo to JW Anderson to, of course, Simone Rocha. The style was (and remains) the cornerstone of the 2010s It-girl wardrobe, as shown by the likes of Alexa Chung and Kate Moss. After a brief fall from grace (during the dark days of chunky Fila sneakers, Y2K Buffalos, and other such ankle-breaking styles), the ballet flat has pirouetted back into our wardrobes in a big way: ballet sneakers, ballet loafers, ballet heels, we’re all gunning for our own Black Swan moment. Quietly leading the (not so quiet) ballet flat revival? French It-girl brand Repetto, whose styles have been adopted by new-gen fashion girls like Lily-Rose Depp.
But prior to ballet flats being associated with any kind of -core, Repetto had a more unlikely mascot: Serge Gainsbourg. In the 1970s, the Frenchman swore by the brand’s Zizi style, a soft jazz shoe that was named for dancer Zizi Jeanmaire, daughter-in-law of brand founder Rose Repetto. Today, you can go to Maison Gainsbourg, a Paris museum dedicated to the late singer, and see a pair of his well-worn, well-loved Repettos. The shoes were originally bought for him by partner Jane Birkin, because she was worried about his “delicate” ankles.
It also recalls the classic Derby shoe silhouette—a style with queried origins that traverse Europe: Some historians say the design can be linked to Edward Smith-Stanley, who was the 14th Earl of Derby; his bootmaker was tasked with creating an elegant but hardy shoe. Others connect it to Russian army officer Gebhard Leberecht von Blücher who required shoes fit for the battlefield. The footwear style has also been known by the names Blucher, Gibson, and Lorne. It actually became a popular sporting and hunting shoe in the 1850s, and by the turn of the 20th century, the Derby had become appropriate for wear about town in everyday life. While they share a shape and much of the same sensibilities, Gainsbourg’s shoe of choice is much more soft, glove-like, and free-flowing than those that stomped the British East Midlands.
Derbies, then—specifically the slim and supple kind—are ready for a comeback. Jacquemus led the charge with its spring 2024 collaboration with Repetto, while Lemaire has quietly adopted the lace-up style in tandem. Most recently, Derby shoes popped up at Celine, where Michael Rider’s French take on American prep is quickly emerging as a new trend. (See also: Jonathan Anderson’s Dior debut).