Naeem Khan recently got engaged to model Madlena Kalinova, and to celebrate their upcoming nuptials the couple took a trip out to Sofia, Bulgaria together. (Kalinova is Bulgarian.) While the intention of the trip was to meet some of Kalinova’s family members and visit her native country, Khan was struck with fashion inspiration while visiting. “Bulgaria is so undiscovered, and they have such an amazing culture,” says Khan. “It’s one of the oldest civilizations in Europe.”
Absorbing in the vibrant architecture and surroundings, Khan took his findings back to his design studio, where he melded Bulgarian motifs with his own signature Indian craftwork for resort. Intricate embroidery is a major fashion through-line between both cultures. “Their embroideries reminded me of what we have in India,” said Khan. Only in Bulgaria, the designer notes, the colors and patterns of the embroideries are much more saturated, a quality he was inspired to translate into his signature evening attire, creating a sprightly mix of gowns and dresses with a joyful and upbeat feel.
A pair of dramatic tiered dresses made of fringed raffia open the lookbook. One was designed in shades of cool blues, while the other was color-blocked in shades of red, pink, and orange. “The stitching [we did] is very similar to Bulgarian stitching,” noted Khan. A long-sleeved sequin gown in a pixelated melange of pastel hues was inspired by the rugs that Khan found along his shopping adventures, and his use of gold materials made reference to the Bulgarian churches he greatly admired while playing tourist. “They have this incredibly detailed metal work,” he said.
Mining inspiration from far-flung locations is nothing new for designers, of course. For Khan, who is known for his impeccable constructions, the focus on artisanal craft made complete sense, though it would have been nice if he involved a particular Bulgarian artist or collective in the process. (The line between cultural appreciation and appropriation remains a tricky one.) But for Khan, the intent was all celebratory. “This whole collection was based out of love—it’s based on my love, who I’m going to be marrying,” he said. One has to wonder: Will he be designing his fiancé’s wedding dress? “It’s going to be difficult for me not to be involved,” he hinted.